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Here are some tips for applying your Vinyl Graphics.


1. These instructions are for temperatures above freezing, using wet application. If you must apply graphics in below freezing conditions, do not use wet application. Follow the same steps dry, but expect air bubbles to appear. (We do not recommend application of graphics in below freezing conditions...Cold days will also increase the set times. If you need to, do it indoors with some heat source.) Small decals approx. 2" and under should not require wet application.
2. Clean the surface that the graphic will be applied to. The surface must be void of solutions or solvents etc. If the surface has been freshly painted, allow at least a week for proper curing time. Paint will out-gas as it cures, attacking the vinyl adhesive. Paint cure times can vary depending on air moisture content, temperature and paint chemical composition.
3. The graphic is between a backing paper & a Semi see-through application tape. Most likely the application tape is a paper type tape. Peel off the backing paper making sure the whole graphic sticks to the application tape. **Note** Many dirt bike (off road use) decals are laminated and thicker due to being mfg. with protective over laminate. These types of decals do not require transfer tape as they are tough and less delicate. If you are installing some thicker laminated decals simply peel the backing and move onto step 4.
4. Spray the surface down with warm soapy water, covering the whole area. Be careful not to use too much soap or the vinyl may not stick as well. Use a mild dish soap such as Palmolive or Sunlight (only a drop or two in a spray bottle) . This will allow you to move the graphic into your preferred space and alignment. This will also help remove any air pockets under the graphic.
5. This is the most important step. Apply the graphic by sliding it onto the surface and locate it to your liking. Press firmly starting from the center out to edges. Use a credit card or similar item to squeegee out the soapy water and air. The key is to get all water out from under the graphic. Wait a period of time to allow adhesive to set. (Set times increase on cold days.)
6. Peel back the application tape carefully, should the graphic start to lift push it back down, apply more pressure, then continue peeling back the tape. Overview the graphic while it is still wet and push out any air pockets, careful not to move the graphic out of position. If graphics come with a clear plastic see through type transfer tape. This clear tape has a higher surface bond and will tend to release from the graphic if you apply some heat from a hair drier or heat gun on light setting. (Take care with heat guns!) If trimming is required be sure to use a new sharp blade. This will allow you to cut through the graphic & transfer tape clean with little pressure, thus not harming the paint surface underneath.
7. Let graphic dry before cleaning the area of water spots. If you have pushed out all air during the step 5 & 6, the graphic should not have air bubbles. Should any appear after drying, use a needle to extract air with a very small hole, but it is not necessary as, small bubbles will disappear over time with exposure to sun, and the air slowly seeps out.
8. Will last for years of viewing pleasure.

Paint procedure and Clear Coating Graphics.

Our decals do not need to be clear coated, but the life span will be increased significantly if you choose to clear coat. Only use high quality PPG or BASF automotive type clear coat paint. We have not tested all clear coat type paints and we use a professional paint shop to get perfect results. We've had great success with urethane base type clear coats. We recommend clear coating our decals if you want to preserve the look for several years. We cannot guarantee how long several years will be, but on a Motorcycle or Snowmobile that is stored indoor, there is no reason the cosmetic finish can't last for 20 to 30 years if painted and clear coated properly and not abused. Consider that all motorcycle OEM's clear coat their decals on fuel tanks (not plastic fuel tanks) to prevent fuel spillage from attacking the graphics. (it is not the decal material itself but the adhesive and inks that can be vulnerable). So we recommend you to clear coat your fuel tank decals to prevent damage from fuel. (not plastic fuel tanks) Abrasive and harsh conditions during washing etc. will always do some damage to your cosmetic finish. Use your own judgment to decide how much time, effort & money you wish to spend for final results. The following steps are a guideline to follow. Some steps might be skipped if you are in a rush. Consult a local professional paint shop for more information. Or for complete paint service, we recommend this top quality paint shop dedicated to motorcycles. www.cyclefinish.net Buy our decals & send your bodywork to Bobby Keith who is one of the best in the business.

1. Paint base coat color(s). Some base coats are more than one color to achieve a certain look.
2. Apply one layer of clear coat to bond to base coat color. This is to be done while the base coat is still tacky. (a bonding issue).
3. Let paint and clear coat fully cure. Cure times depend on air moisture content, temperature and paint chemical composition. (Professional painters use more or less hardener in the paint to speed or slow the cure time.)
4. Wet sand the entire painted surface to create the proper smooth surface. An 800 grit wet paper will provide a good smooth surface, but not too smooth, thus allowing clear coat paint to bond properly.
5. Clean surface and apply decals/graphics. (instructions shown above)
6. Clean surface after decal application. (no water spots, oil or fingerprint residue)
7. Spray on your final clear coat multiple layers to completely cover entire bodywork surface and decals. Take care when laying down multiple coats of clear. The ideal thing is to lay down one overall thin spray for your first coat. The first coat is an important step, consider this a sealer coat. Pause for a break after the first coat and allow a little extra time for this sealer coat to cure to the limit, (do not allow to fully cure). This allows the clear to seal and bond properly to the decals. Then continue with further layers of clear. Laying down multiple layers of clear after the sealer coat can go more quickly. Pausing between each layer, with each coat never fully cured. Each coat must remain tacky to provide proper bonding. Too much paint at one time is almost always a disaster and especially during the first sealer coat stage. Again consult a professional painter if needed.
8. Let fully cure and enjoy your efforts.


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